While Sodding Is More Expensive Than
Seeding, The Result Is An Instant Lawn At Virtually Any
Time Of The Year. For Successful Establishment Of Your
Newly Sodded Lawn, It MUST Be WATERED Heavily Until The
Sod Takes Root. Do Not Allow Sod To Dry Out During This
Period; Sod Will Shrink And Gaps Will Form Between Sod
Squares. Once Sod Is Rooted Down, Per Week. New Sod
Should Be Mowed When Grass Reaches 3” Inches In Height
And Slight Resistance Can Be Felt If You Try To Lift The
Sod (this means it is rooting down sod should be latched
down in (2) Two weeks with optimum conditions) When
Mowing Set The Mower Height Lowest being 2 ½: Inches –
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A Seeded Lawn, While Being The Most
Economic Method Of Installing A Lawn, Usually Takes Up
to Three (3) Years Of Care To Establish. We Sow The
Proper Seed Blend That Will Adapt Itself To Your Climate
and Site Condition. Mulch has been applied to hold
moisture and prevent erosion; do NOT remove it. It will
decompose naturally and add humus to the soil. It is
advisable to attache drain tile to downspouts to disburse rainwater until grass is established to prevent
washouts. Lightly water new seeding daily. It is
important to keep the seed moist, but not to over water
and cause washouts. In about one to two weeks, grass
seeding will appear ( it may take longer in early spring
and late fall when soil temperatures are lower ) Weeds
which are normally present as seed in any topsoil, may
also germinate. Most weeds are annual and mowing will
prevent them from reproducing. Reseed any areas where
seed does not germinate. Work up the soil with a garden
rake, sow seed and continue watering. Do not let the new
grass grow taller than three (3) inches before mowing.
When you mow set mower at 2 ½” to minimize damage to
tender grass seedlings. Once seeding is established,
only supplementary watering necessary to keep grass
growing. We recommend fertilizing with a lawn starter
fertilizer (4) four weeks after seeding. This will
encourage a thicker lawn and greener grass. Weed and
feed after three (3) Mowing a Winterizer in Sept./Oct.
and pre-emergent in spring.
transplanting, nursery stock does not resume
normal growth for as long as 2 full growing seasons.
There is much that can be done, however, to encourage
plants to establish themselves in as short a period as
possible. The first (6) six weeks are the most critical
for your newly transplanted nursery stock.
WATERING GUIDELINES, SPRING & FALL PLANTING:
Soak your new plants thoroughly when planted, then (2)
two times the first week and once (1) a week for the
following year. Stop in September for spring plantings.
SUMMER PLANTING: Soak thoroughly when planting and again
the next day. Water (3) three times the first week, and
twice (2) a week for (3) three weeks and once (1) a week
for the next year. Stop at freeze-up for those planted
in August on.
IMPORTANT WATERING TIPS:
Our Wisconsin soils and weather vary
tremendously! The above guidelines for watering should
be altered for unusual conditions:
Heavy clay soil or cool rainy weather – Water half as
Sandy, gravelly soil or very hot weather – water twice
Late fall planting – Be sure to continue watering next
The soil should get moist to the bottom of the planting
pit. But then it should be allowed to “ air out “ before
being watered again. Adjust your watering schedule to
reflect the recent rainfall amounts. Rainfall may
provide some or all of the moisture needed. Remember
one (1) inch of rain replaces one watering. Also
downspouts should be diverted from shrub beds. Plant
roots are deep. When you water, soak thoroughly. Don’t
water a little every day. Don’t relay on sprinklers if
you are watering your lawn.
To reduce competition for moisture and
nutrients, we recommend you make every effort to remove
weeds from your planting beds. Ground cover and
flowerbeds, in particular, should be kept as weed free
as possible to allow desirable plants to establish
themselves. We typically install a fibrous weed
barrier (never use plastic, this seals out needed
oxygen) or incorporate a granular weed preventive in the
soil. Mulching with a porous material such as shredded
bark or stone is beneficial as it shades the root area
of plants and helps retain soil moisture. Since
shredded bark is an organic material, which gradually
decomposes, it will need to be occasionally replenished.
STRAW / STRAW MATS:
It is not necessary to remove straw or
straw mats they will decompose naturally on there own,
if you remove them you may kill the newly seeded grass.
(On the first few mowings it is recommended you
rake the clippings and debris of the new grass.)